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POP CONFERENCE 2025

Baby, It’s a Look!
Popular Music, Style, and Fashion at the Edge

March 13 - 15, 2025

Los Angeles, California

Presented by USC Thornton School of Music

With the  International Association for the Study of Popular Music (IASPM-US) and Critical Minded


Over three exciting days of panels, roundtables, keynotes, and special events, the 23rd annual Pop Conference will explore the deep and complex relationship between popular music, style, and fashion. This year’s theme, “Baby, It’s a Look: Popular Music, Style, and Fashion at the Edge,” draws its inspiration from a 2017 Leikeli47 lyric and marks the first joint gathering of PopCon and IASPM-US since 2012.

Fashion and music are inextricably linked, from Josephine Baker’s banana skirt, Cab Calloway’s zoot suits, Billie Holiday’s signature gardenia, to The Beatles’ mop-top haircuts. Today, the connection between pop music and fashion remains stronger than ever. Visualizers thrive on streaming platforms; fashion runways in Paris, Rio de Janeiro, and Johannesburg deploy pop music to bring designers’ visions to life; and musicians themselves blaze new trails designing streetwear collections and serving as creative directors for major fashion houses. 

But style has always been much more than just commerce or escapism—it has long been a space for critique, refusal, defiance, and radical expression. At its most powerful, style challenges norms, blurs boundaries, and pushes artistic and cultural frontiers, moving us right to the edge. 

This year’s conference returns to USC’s Thornton School of Music in Los Angeles just months after January 2025’s catastrophic Eaton and Palisades wildfires, and during a time of profound global upheaval and turmoil. The 2025 “Baby, It’s a Look: Popular Music, Style, and Fashion at the Edge” conference presents a remix, an opportunity to reconsider how fashion and music shape the world we live in, reflecting our realities, struggles, and aspirations while leading us toward the very edge of what feels possible.

Open to the public and free admission with conference registration on Eventbrite. Some events may require separate registration.
Friday March 14, 2025 2:00pm - 3:45pm PDT
In the 1980s book, Big Sounds from Small People: The Music Industry in Small
Countries. musicologists Roger Wallis and Krister Malm caustically observed: “Sweden
has given the world ABBA (though their music has nothing to do with their country of
origin).” This panel, convened at a time of tariff-talk and anti-globalization, looks at style
through these fundamental issues. Some pop music is aimed at a domestic market, but
much is made for export. That might be from small countries to regions and global
audiences. Or via racial and genre crossover categories. Using the lessons of Motown,
K-Pop, Max Martin, and Quebec, with likely nods to the British Invasion, country music
of various origins and Eurovision, this panel takes as its starting point the idea that
export music is not just a watered-down product. As pop kicked out of the nest, it
explores non- and anti-domestic style, with implications that range from the role of
government to the mediation of identity.

INDIVIDUAL ABSTRACTS

Eric Weisbard, The “SweMix” of American Pop, from Abba to Spotify

This presentation, focusing on the band Abba, the guild of songwriters and “SweMix”
producers associated with Max Martin, and the audio music streaming corporation Spotify,
will explore how a small, Scandinavian country has for fifty years redefined mainstream pop
worldwide. Lacking a large domestic market, Swedes crafted music for export, fitting the moods
and needs of consumers rather than unveiling a local scene.

But what makes it Swedish? We can marvel at its scope, feel shaped by its anthems, and still wonder
about its plasticity. I will track a commercial success, the “Swedish miracle,” but also revulsion aimed
at that success, whether 1970s anti-Abba prog-rock scenesters or anti-Spotify teardowns right now.
Swedish-American pop exchanges map a space of remixing, where the dominant language is often
people’s second language and the local gives way to a relentless flow of at times alarming, hybridity. Abba, Martin, and Spotify chose to emigrate from Swedish origins to – quote unquote – “pop.” And they built up equity
in that placeless place.

The choice put them in the tradition of Vilhelm Moberg’s series of novels, The Emigrants, which
made an epic of Sweden as the nation that sent the highest percentage of its people to the United States
in the 19 th and early 20 th century. Abba’s two songwriters, Björn Ulvaeus and Benny Andersson, created Kristina
från Duvemåla, a musical adaptation of the novels. Having claimed a full stake in a world of Chiquititas
and dancing queens, emigrants Benny and Björn wrote home. These back-and-forths will be my theme:
style at the edge between a small, too-stable locale and a big, ambiguous neighbor.

Euny Hong, “K-Poppenheimer’s Deadly Toy: How the South Korean Government 
Manufactured the K-Pop Industry from Scratch”

Just 70 years ago, South Korea was the world’s third-poorest country. Far from having a
global reputation as a producer of music, it didn’t even have its own national anthem,
and it initially had to borrow the tune from “Auld Lang Syne.” Until a decade ago, if you
were to ask any non-Korean to name a K-pop song, the closest they’d get would
probably have been the theme song from the TV show M*A*S*H*. Now, it’s one of the
world’s wealthiest nations and biggest exporters of pop, having re-invented not just
band-dom, but fandom. In fact, its fandom is so unique that Korean record labels had to
invent the word “fandustry,” a portmanteau word combining “fan” with “industry.” The
world has never seen its like. How did we get from there to here? And what bizarre role
did the movie Jurassic Park play? (Hint: everything)

What most people do not know is that “Hallyu”—the Korean Wave of pop culture
led by K-pop—is no accident. It has been brewing in a South Korean government
laboratory (figuratively… but also literally) for the last three decades. It's the most well-
funded, meticulously orchestrated national marketing campaign in the history of the
world. The goal: to make Korea synonymous with cool, with music leading the way.

Just 12 years ago, after “Gangnam Style” broke YouTube records, many thought
K-pop was a fluke. Well, if so, then it’s a fluke that has already endured longer than the
Beatles lasted as a band. Not only has South Korea produced the world’s top boy band
(BTS), but there’s no end in sight, with some gobsmacking stats: Of the top 10 YouTube
music video debuts of all time, numbers one through nine are K-pop acts, with only one
outlier—Taylor Swift’s ME!—occupying 10th place. The most tweeted-about band is
BTS (even though they’ve been on hiatus since 2022), the band with the most
Instagram followers is BlackPink. How did all this happen? How did Korea make its pop
music fully mainstream, when no other non-English speaking nation managed to pull
this off?

Erin MacLeod, “Distinct Society: Quebecois Music Out of Canada”


The tale of CanCon is one that instills fascination in anyone not familiar with the MAPL
system - a requirement that 35% of any popular music played on radio, must fulfill at
least two of the following conditions: music, artist, performance location or lyrics are
defined as Canadian. This has led to niche artists like B-4-4 and Shawn Desman having
a presence as large in Canada as some major American stars, but it also has
undoubtedly propelled the popularity of now massive stars like Justin Bieber and Drake.

But then there is Quebec. The other of the two solitudes has produced artists like
Arcade Fire, Kaytranada, Grimes, and, of course, Celine. But these artists have little to
no connection to the weekly Franco hit parade. Quebec music has always been defined
as having to be, primarily, French language, but the music that grows up in Quebec and
is exported to the rest of the world expands the notion of what Quebec is, much to the
chagrin of the government cultural brokers.
Moderators
avatar for Paul David Flood

Paul David Flood

Eastman School of Music
Paul David Flood is a musicologist and cultural historian of popular music, geopolitics, migration, and belonging in contemporary Europe. He is a Ph.D. Candidate in Musicology at the Eastman School of Music where he is writing his dissertation on the Eurovision Song Contest. He is... Read More →
Speakers
avatar for Eric Weisbard

Eric Weisbard

American Studies prof, Univ of Alabama, University of Alabama
Eric Weisbard is professor of American Studies at the University of Alabama, author of such books as Top 40 Democracy, Songbooks, and Hound Dog, co-founder and longtime organizer of the Pop Conference, and a former Village Voice music editor and Journal of Popular Music Studies co-editor... Read More →
EH

Euny Hong

Euny Hong is a bestselling author of three books that have been published in 20 languages, including The Birth of Korean Cool: How One Nation is Conquering the World Through Pop Culture. A Yale grad and former Fulbright Scholar, Frankfurter, and Berliner, she lived in Paris longer... Read More →
avatar for Erin MacLeod

Erin MacLeod

Writer, teacher, researcher, Vanier College
Erin MacLeod (she/her) has a PhD in communications from McGill, has taught at the University of the West Indies and presently teaches at Vanier College in Montreal, located on the traditional and unceded territory of the Kanien’kehà:ka (Mohawk). Her research interests lie in relationships... Read More →
Friday March 14, 2025 2:00pm - 3:45pm PDT
USC Carson Television Center 3450 Watt Way, Los Angeles, CA 90089, USA

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